Oh....my....God.
I just had three of the most bizarre hours of my life, involving 3 relative strangers, some friendly goats and a stone cavern in the middle of the mesa.
Oh...My....God.
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
My Eleventh Post
Hello! It’s been a few days since I posted – Since I last saw you in New Orleans I’ve spent two days in Austin, TX and am currently in New Mexico. Where to begin…I arrived in Austin feeling a grump. I was tired, hungry, and just wanted to sleep – unfortunately I had a tremendous snorer in my room, so I woke up the next morning an even bigger grump. I explored Austin that day, hit up a couple of bakeries and coffee houses and walked around the downtown, but I must say I think the weather added to my apathy, for it was hot and humid and I just didn’t feel like doing anything. I made friends with a really nice French guy named Benoit, who seems to be on a similar travel route to me, so that was something good that came out of my stay in Austin. We will meet again in Flagstaff. This hostel was a bit blander than the previous two, so I didn’t even take any photos of it. It seems that the travel route I’m on is a common one; there were several people at the hostel in Austin that had also been staying in the same hostel in New Orleans. Anyways, I really don’t have too much to report from Austin, except that my second night I discovered the recipe for sleeping well in a dorm full of noisy snorers: two benadryl and earplugs. I slept like a kitten next to a fire in wintertime.
Now what I really must report on is New Mexico. After a long 12 hour drive through extremely temperamental weather (68 degrees and pouring rain – strange for the desert) I arrived in Truth Or Consequences. There is not much happening in this town, many people live in fairly simple conditions, but it is beautiful. I am in love with my little hotel/hostel. It is right on the river, it too is simple but has all the amenities I need – wi-fi and a coffee maker. Its lovely hot springs sit overlooking the river and mountains (I believe it is called Turtleback Mountain?) I lucked out; I rented a pension, which is essentially a bedroom that shares a living area, kitchen and bathroom with two other bedrooms. However nobody else is in the other bedrooms so I have the entire place to myself! I love it! There is something peaceful in the air here and I feel really happy – so much so that I think I am going to cancel my night at Canyon de Chelly tonight and stay here another night. It means that I will also miss driving through Monument Valley, but I just don’t want to leave right now. We’ll see though, I have until 11 to decide. I think I might go for a soak in the pools for a little while. Last evening I tried to photograph a stunning rainbow that rose over the mountain across the river – however it took me a minute to run and get my camera and by the time I returned the light had changed – so it is a little hard to make out. I had a bunch of other things to write about but of course now I can’t remember. Perhaps I will add posts today as I remember. The air is much clearer here than in Austin and I feel refreshed and not a grump at all. Enjoy the photos, and try not to be too jealous…
Now what I really must report on is New Mexico. After a long 12 hour drive through extremely temperamental weather (68 degrees and pouring rain – strange for the desert) I arrived in Truth Or Consequences. There is not much happening in this town, many people live in fairly simple conditions, but it is beautiful. I am in love with my little hotel/hostel. It is right on the river, it too is simple but has all the amenities I need – wi-fi and a coffee maker. Its lovely hot springs sit overlooking the river and mountains (I believe it is called Turtleback Mountain?) I lucked out; I rented a pension, which is essentially a bedroom that shares a living area, kitchen and bathroom with two other bedrooms. However nobody else is in the other bedrooms so I have the entire place to myself! I love it! There is something peaceful in the air here and I feel really happy – so much so that I think I am going to cancel my night at Canyon de Chelly tonight and stay here another night. It means that I will also miss driving through Monument Valley, but I just don’t want to leave right now. We’ll see though, I have until 11 to decide. I think I might go for a soak in the pools for a little while. Last evening I tried to photograph a stunning rainbow that rose over the mountain across the river – however it took me a minute to run and get my camera and by the time I returned the light had changed – so it is a little hard to make out. I had a bunch of other things to write about but of course now I can’t remember. Perhaps I will add posts today as I remember. The air is much clearer here than in Austin and I feel refreshed and not a grump at all. Enjoy the photos, and try not to be too jealous…
Saturday, July 28, 2007
My tenth-and-a-half Post
Something I have noticed:
People in the south don't drink seltzer water and they don't drink iced coffee. This is problematic for me, as they are my two staples. I literally CANNOT find seltzer anywhere. ANYWHERE. Drug stores, grocery stores, you name it, I've tried it, across several states. I've only had success with club soda in decent restaurants. I can deal with the iced coffee thing as hot coffee ultimately serves the same purpose, and if I'm in the car with the AC on the hot coffee is nice. The seltzer thing is killing me though. If there's one thing I wish for, it's a big ol' bottle of ice cold seltzer. It's like being in a foreign country where the milk is served warm, or the coke tastes different. Except imagine a country where there is no milk and there is no coke. That's like me, here in the land of no seltzer. Had I known, I would have stockpiled my car so full of seltzer I wouldn't have been able to see out the rearview mirror. Ah well, as my old history teacher used to say, hindsight 20/20.
People in the south don't drink seltzer water and they don't drink iced coffee. This is problematic for me, as they are my two staples. I literally CANNOT find seltzer anywhere. ANYWHERE. Drug stores, grocery stores, you name it, I've tried it, across several states. I've only had success with club soda in decent restaurants. I can deal with the iced coffee thing as hot coffee ultimately serves the same purpose, and if I'm in the car with the AC on the hot coffee is nice. The seltzer thing is killing me though. If there's one thing I wish for, it's a big ol' bottle of ice cold seltzer. It's like being in a foreign country where the milk is served warm, or the coke tastes different. Except imagine a country where there is no milk and there is no coke. That's like me, here in the land of no seltzer. Had I known, I would have stockpiled my car so full of seltzer I wouldn't have been able to see out the rearview mirror. Ah well, as my old history teacher used to say, hindsight 20/20.
My Tenth Post
Tonight is my second night in New Orleans. I will start by saying the New Orleans is a stunningly beautiful city; even the super-touristy areas have charm. Perhaps that's because the super-touristy area is mainly in the French Quarter, which could never NOT be charming, no matter how touristy it got. Although I've never been there during Mardi Gras; perhaps this is a different story.
My hostel is also "charming" one might say. It is a former brothel, which is a good way to introduce it. Unlike the last hostel, cleanliness is not one of its strengths. Nor does it particularly smell of roses, but rather beer and sweaty hippies. The good news is that I had the forsight to book myself a private room which I am the better off for doing. I even have my very own laz-e-boy or however you spell it. This is where I do my blogging, it is quite perfect really. It is unclear the number of employees here, and difficult to discern who is and isn't an employee, as I hear that some people come and just never leave and end up "working" in order to pay their stay. There is an above ground swimming pool of which I was at first skeptical, but I have since decided that the showers deserve greater skepticism, and have thus opted to use the pool for my bathing. There are people of all ages and nationalities, though aimless drifters I think make up the majority of the residents. It's also mostly men, perhaps adding to the general stink of the place. No offense, guys, but you tend to smell a little more than us ladies. Having said all this, I am quite enjoying myself here. My motto is, as long as I don't get raped, robbed or bedbugs, I'm happy. And this place definitely has a free spirit that is all its own.
I headed out to the French Quarter this morning and strolled around for a few hours, stopping in shops, galleries, and yummy cafes of course. My favorite part of this stroll was going down the quieter, smaller streets and peeking down the tiny alleyways that seem to be the true arteries of the city. They are filled with secret courtyards, gardens, and beauty. Unfortunately, around 1:30 a torrential downpour began that lasted until the late afternoon, so I opted for a driving tour for the rest of the day. I first went over the Mississippi River in search of historical plantations that I had read about, but alas! No dice. All that I found were those gigantic round oil tank things and what looked like mining sites. I then headed over to the areas that had been hardest hit by Katrina. It is unbelievable to see house after house after house that is completely ruined, unliveable, and wonder where all these displaced people went. Each house in this area has the spray painted rescue marks on it, the big X and the number of dead or living found. It is eery and I felt very sad seeing the destruction and the conditions that people are still living in.
After a cat-nap back at the hostel I decided to treat myself to a full meal, as those are few and far between these days. I had absolutely one of the best meals I can remember in a long time - some pulled beef brisket, mashed potatoes and celery root something or other. Friggin fantastic. I went to a restaurant in the Garden District - less touristy than the French Quarter, but home to impressively large and beautiful old houses, a youthful and mellow feel, restaurants and shops lining Magazine Street. From what I have seen of New Orleans, were I to live here, this is where I would want to live. I also found a GORGEOUS bakery/chocolate/gelato joint. I got some stares as I went around photographing it, I was just so obsessed. I even photographed the bathrooms they were so clean and pretty. They have a pretty kitchen in back, a lovely variety of plated desserts, unbelievable (and unbelievably expensive at $60 a pound) chocolates, and lots of gelato and sorbet. OOH and they have croissants too and a few other pastries. OOOH and fancy French macaroons, the ones that are all funny little colors. I finally settled on blood orange sorbet because I didn't think my tummy could handle something heavier after my feast of beef. I am glad that I don't have gallstones (or a gallbladder for that matter) anymore because I really like eating fat.
I feel like a party pooper because some of the hostelers gave me a hard time for not going out tonight. I just get so sleepy! And frankly, bobbing up and down Bourbon Street at 2 am doesn't really sound like a treat to me anymore...but I feel a little bit like I am missing out on New Orleans night culture. Ah well, next time I'm here I'll paint the town red. For now, I have to get up tomorrow and drive 9 hours to Austin. Yeeeeeehaw!
P.S. Check out the cute little t-shirt I bought at the pastry shop tonight:
My hostel is also "charming" one might say. It is a former brothel, which is a good way to introduce it. Unlike the last hostel, cleanliness is not one of its strengths. Nor does it particularly smell of roses, but rather beer and sweaty hippies. The good news is that I had the forsight to book myself a private room which I am the better off for doing. I even have my very own laz-e-boy or however you spell it. This is where I do my blogging, it is quite perfect really. It is unclear the number of employees here, and difficult to discern who is and isn't an employee, as I hear that some people come and just never leave and end up "working" in order to pay their stay. There is an above ground swimming pool of which I was at first skeptical, but I have since decided that the showers deserve greater skepticism, and have thus opted to use the pool for my bathing. There are people of all ages and nationalities, though aimless drifters I think make up the majority of the residents. It's also mostly men, perhaps adding to the general stink of the place. No offense, guys, but you tend to smell a little more than us ladies. Having said all this, I am quite enjoying myself here. My motto is, as long as I don't get raped, robbed or bedbugs, I'm happy. And this place definitely has a free spirit that is all its own.
I headed out to the French Quarter this morning and strolled around for a few hours, stopping in shops, galleries, and yummy cafes of course. My favorite part of this stroll was going down the quieter, smaller streets and peeking down the tiny alleyways that seem to be the true arteries of the city. They are filled with secret courtyards, gardens, and beauty. Unfortunately, around 1:30 a torrential downpour began that lasted until the late afternoon, so I opted for a driving tour for the rest of the day. I first went over the Mississippi River in search of historical plantations that I had read about, but alas! No dice. All that I found were those gigantic round oil tank things and what looked like mining sites. I then headed over to the areas that had been hardest hit by Katrina. It is unbelievable to see house after house after house that is completely ruined, unliveable, and wonder where all these displaced people went. Each house in this area has the spray painted rescue marks on it, the big X and the number of dead or living found. It is eery and I felt very sad seeing the destruction and the conditions that people are still living in.
After a cat-nap back at the hostel I decided to treat myself to a full meal, as those are few and far between these days. I had absolutely one of the best meals I can remember in a long time - some pulled beef brisket, mashed potatoes and celery root something or other. Friggin fantastic. I went to a restaurant in the Garden District - less touristy than the French Quarter, but home to impressively large and beautiful old houses, a youthful and mellow feel, restaurants and shops lining Magazine Street. From what I have seen of New Orleans, were I to live here, this is where I would want to live. I also found a GORGEOUS bakery/chocolate/gelato joint. I got some stares as I went around photographing it, I was just so obsessed. I even photographed the bathrooms they were so clean and pretty. They have a pretty kitchen in back, a lovely variety of plated desserts, unbelievable (and unbelievably expensive at $60 a pound) chocolates, and lots of gelato and sorbet. OOH and they have croissants too and a few other pastries. OOOH and fancy French macaroons, the ones that are all funny little colors. I finally settled on blood orange sorbet because I didn't think my tummy could handle something heavier after my feast of beef. I am glad that I don't have gallstones (or a gallbladder for that matter) anymore because I really like eating fat.
I feel like a party pooper because some of the hostelers gave me a hard time for not going out tonight. I just get so sleepy! And frankly, bobbing up and down Bourbon Street at 2 am doesn't really sound like a treat to me anymore...but I feel a little bit like I am missing out on New Orleans night culture. Ah well, next time I'm here I'll paint the town red. For now, I have to get up tomorrow and drive 9 hours to Austin. Yeeeeeehaw!
P.S. Check out the cute little t-shirt I bought at the pastry shop tonight:
My Ninth-and-a-half Post
Before I move on to New Orleans, check it out, I stopped by Egypt! I kid, I kid...It's just Memphis...as you probably know since Egypt is not known for its metallic pyramids...
Thursday, July 26, 2007
My Ninth Post
How CUTE is this hostel? And though it might look like a ghost hostel in these photos, there are actually other people staying and working here, they're just all in bed cuz believe it or not I wake up early these days. I think I'm just so excited for each day. Everybody is so kind here and in order to check out you have to complete a chore - I chose cleaning the kitchen, as it's something I am used to doing. Ok I'm off to explore Memphis before heading off for New Orleans - tata for now.
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
My Eighth Post
Louisville = mucho fun. I stayed with my old friend Kate Cornell - we first went to Chapin together when we were little, then continued riding horses together until we were 18. Since we went to college we haven't really been in good touch so it was wonderful to get together again and catch up. She is such a rockstar now - a reporter for the cbs affiliate in Louisville. I got to watch her report on the 6 o'clock news - watch out Katie Couric! I am so proud of her for kicking butt.
Anyways, Tuesday I had a nice day putzing around Louisville. I slept in and snuggled with Kate's pug Eddie, whom you will see below. We really fell in love with eachother. I had a whole photo shoot with him, but i will spare you and just show you one pic. I then hit up a kooky joint called Lynn's Breakfast Cafe - all these crazy colors and statues and silly things crammed in all corners. Yummy eggs. And of course I had to hit up the local bakeries - I went to a homemade Icecream and Pie place, and a more upscale dessert place. The owner of the latter, Helen, was there and she was extremely friendly and we talked for about half an hour about what it's like to own a business, baking etc. She was very chatty and hospitable. Later in the afternoon I went to the derby museum at Churchill Downs and went on a tour of the racetrack. It is a stunning facility and inspired me to get more into racing.
I got to meet all of Louisville's finest talent for dinner, as Kate took me out to dinner with some of the other reporters and anchors for the local stations. It was so funny, such a different world from what I'm used to up in NYC! They were very sweet.
Today Kate and I hit up a FABULOUS bakery for breakfast, called Blue Dog - I would recommend it to anyone in the area. They have absolutely gorgeous breads, and it's a very nice well decorated cafe. I'm now down in Memphis for the night at my first hostel of the trip. I have to say, this hostel has blown me away. It is in a church here in town, and the staff is so friendly, the hostel itself is clean and cozy, and it's really more than i could ever ask for for 15 bucks a night. I will take some pics of it tomorrow and share them with you. For now, it's Louisville pics.
Oh, does anybody know what a Hazmat is? I kept seeing signs for them a couple of days ago and i have no idea what they are.
And why is Tennessee the volunteer state?
Also, Francina, if you're reading, Milli Vanilli 'Girl you know it's true' came on today - i thought of your amazing rapping skills. Miss you all! xoxo
Anyways, Tuesday I had a nice day putzing around Louisville. I slept in and snuggled with Kate's pug Eddie, whom you will see below. We really fell in love with eachother. I had a whole photo shoot with him, but i will spare you and just show you one pic. I then hit up a kooky joint called Lynn's Breakfast Cafe - all these crazy colors and statues and silly things crammed in all corners. Yummy eggs. And of course I had to hit up the local bakeries - I went to a homemade Icecream and Pie place, and a more upscale dessert place. The owner of the latter, Helen, was there and she was extremely friendly and we talked for about half an hour about what it's like to own a business, baking etc. She was very chatty and hospitable. Later in the afternoon I went to the derby museum at Churchill Downs and went on a tour of the racetrack. It is a stunning facility and inspired me to get more into racing.
I got to meet all of Louisville's finest talent for dinner, as Kate took me out to dinner with some of the other reporters and anchors for the local stations. It was so funny, such a different world from what I'm used to up in NYC! They were very sweet.
Today Kate and I hit up a FABULOUS bakery for breakfast, called Blue Dog - I would recommend it to anyone in the area. They have absolutely gorgeous breads, and it's a very nice well decorated cafe. I'm now down in Memphis for the night at my first hostel of the trip. I have to say, this hostel has blown me away. It is in a church here in town, and the staff is so friendly, the hostel itself is clean and cozy, and it's really more than i could ever ask for for 15 bucks a night. I will take some pics of it tomorrow and share them with you. For now, it's Louisville pics.
Oh, does anybody know what a Hazmat is? I kept seeing signs for them a couple of days ago and i have no idea what they are.
And why is Tennessee the volunteer state?
Also, Francina, if you're reading, Milli Vanilli 'Girl you know it's true' came on today - i thought of your amazing rapping skills. Miss you all! xoxo
Monday, July 23, 2007
My Seventh Post
Two days down, a lot more to go! So far, so good - no, check - so far, everything's GREAT! In two days I've already logged 950 miles and 17 hours on the road. Although to tell the truth, yesterday didn't really feel much like a road trip. I-95 is the most unpleasant road to drive on. So crowded, so many trucks, so many people at the rest stops, it's just awful. However, that leg of my trip is OVER - no more east coast for now. I pulled in yesterday to DC and spent a lovely night with my friend Sam from Bates. He cooked dinner for me and his new boyfriend Marcelo, whom you'll see in one of the pics below. Afterwards we played a rowdy game of Apple vs. Apple - anybody ever played it? It's awesome - I'd never played it before - but it's great because it's very entertaining and and humorous but takes very little actual effort - no boards, no dice, no moving pieces. Sam and I took a jaunt over to the Washington monument late-night and took some dramatic shots, I wasn't sure how they'd come out but they look pretty cool! Sam looks like he's spiderman in one of them.
Today I did an 11 hour drive from DC to Louisville, KY. The drive was gorgeous, and I'd take an 11 hour drive through West Virginia and KY over a 6 hour drive on 95 any day. The first half of the trip took me through lush mountain passes, which makes the driving feel more adventurous when you're not quite sure what you're going to see coming around the bend. The second half took me through the rolling hills of Kentucky, where literally, between Lexington and Louisville, there is nothing but perfectly tended fences, green pastures and HORSES - LOTS AND LOTS of them. These people down here LOVE their horses - and if you know me you know - so do I! That stretch was actually fairly dramatic, for as I looked in the rearview mirror, the sky was black and stormy, while the sky in front of me was nothing but blue and sunny. I loved it.
here are some thoughts:
-i listened to a country station for a little while today. the chorus of my favorite song i heard went like this, a man singing to his girlfriend: "well i got sober, since then i've been thinking, you're a lot less fun since i quit drinking" who writes that???????
-driving long distances is all about pacing myself. i can't get in the car and immediately rock out at 8 in the morning. otherwise by 10 i'm dead.
-i had lunch at a place called '79er restaurant' - i asked for a burger cooked medium - before i realized it was really just a glorified mcdonalds with a free salad bar and table service. whoops. no wonder the waitress looked at me funny.
-i also listened to some ultra-conservative radio for a little while. fascinating. and some christian rock station, although that lasted a whole 13 seconds.
-i didn't have cell service for 7 hours of my drive today. i had to use a payphone for the first time in years. i couldn't figure out how to do it. that was a humbling moment.
-i didn't realize how far west Maryland extends. i always thought of it as a purely coastal state, but it's actually got quite a stunning western stretch.
-cruise control is a blessing on long stretches of empty road. my back is happier because of it.
-things really do tend to move a little slower down here. i feel like a crazy intense neurotic northerner when i talk to southerners, they are so mellow. and i'm not even in the deep south yet.
Below are some pics from DC. I'm pooped-buenas noches.
Today I did an 11 hour drive from DC to Louisville, KY. The drive was gorgeous, and I'd take an 11 hour drive through West Virginia and KY over a 6 hour drive on 95 any day. The first half of the trip took me through lush mountain passes, which makes the driving feel more adventurous when you're not quite sure what you're going to see coming around the bend. The second half took me through the rolling hills of Kentucky, where literally, between Lexington and Louisville, there is nothing but perfectly tended fences, green pastures and HORSES - LOTS AND LOTS of them. These people down here LOVE their horses - and if you know me you know - so do I! That stretch was actually fairly dramatic, for as I looked in the rearview mirror, the sky was black and stormy, while the sky in front of me was nothing but blue and sunny. I loved it.
here are some thoughts:
-i listened to a country station for a little while today. the chorus of my favorite song i heard went like this, a man singing to his girlfriend: "well i got sober, since then i've been thinking, you're a lot less fun since i quit drinking" who writes that???????
-driving long distances is all about pacing myself. i can't get in the car and immediately rock out at 8 in the morning. otherwise by 10 i'm dead.
-i had lunch at a place called '79er restaurant' - i asked for a burger cooked medium - before i realized it was really just a glorified mcdonalds with a free salad bar and table service. whoops. no wonder the waitress looked at me funny.
-i also listened to some ultra-conservative radio for a little while. fascinating. and some christian rock station, although that lasted a whole 13 seconds.
-i didn't have cell service for 7 hours of my drive today. i had to use a payphone for the first time in years. i couldn't figure out how to do it. that was a humbling moment.
-i didn't realize how far west Maryland extends. i always thought of it as a purely coastal state, but it's actually got quite a stunning western stretch.
-cruise control is a blessing on long stretches of empty road. my back is happier because of it.
-things really do tend to move a little slower down here. i feel like a crazy intense neurotic northerner when i talk to southerners, they are so mellow. and i'm not even in the deep south yet.
Below are some pics from DC. I'm pooped-buenas noches.
Saturday, July 21, 2007
My Sixth Post
It's the eve of my departure! Tonight we are going to my sister Polly's house for lobster. Delish. I have here some pics of my last week spent with the fam and the pets. My kitty, Little, likes to gnaw on my fingers, and last night I caught her in action. And my niece and nephews just make me giggle with love when I look at them they are too cute. Ok well I guess I'll see you on the road! xoxo
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